Puppy Development Stages The most important time in a puppy’s development is during the first year, especially during the first 3 months of life. By understanding the development stages, we can provide our puppies with what they need when they need it most, for optimal development! The Imprinting Period: First 3 Months of Age Like children, puppies have a small window of time during brain development when they are most impressionable. This is called the imprinting, or critical learning period.  For puppies, the imprinting period is during the first 14 weeks of life. Puppies learn more during this time than they can learn in a life time. Therefore, the quality and quantity of what they experience will have a huge impact on their future personalities and determine the formation of many of their “good” or “bad” behavior tendencies. In fact, such vast change in development happens with each day that passes, the Imprinting Period is further sub-divided into multiple distinct puppy-stages. First 7 Weeks  (Neonatal Period, Transition Period, and 1st Socialization Period) In the first 7 weeks of life, puppies gain use of all the senses, become mobile, start growing baby teeth, transition to eating solid foods, and become completely weaned (independent) from their dog moms.  Learning is already rapidly occurring, making it important that human caretakers provide puppies with specific neurological stimulation, a complex environment, and careful, yet thorough, socialization for proper development and adjustment to living in human society.  During this time, there are also very critical lessons that the puppies must learn from their dog moms and siblings. Therefore, puppies should not be removed from their original homes before 7 weeks of age.  Click Here to Learn more about Graveyard Run's Neonate Puppy Imprinting Process! 7–14 Weeks (2nd Socialization Period) The optimal time for puppies to be placed with their new human families is at 7-8 weeks of age.  As soon as your puppy comes home, time is of the essence for you to provide a huge heaping of high quality socialization and schooling. This is the key to a creating a socially self-confident, well-behaved puppy that is strongly bonded to you.  It is also the key to preventing yappy, shy, and/or aggressive behaviors from developing later in life!  Fear-Impact Period: During the 2nd Socialization Period, when your puppy is around 8-11 weeks of age, it is important to be aware of what is known as a Fear-Impact Period. If puppies have “bad” or scary experiences during this time, the impressions are likely to last a lifetime and resurface during maturity.  So, protect your puppy from these long-term effects by avoiding bad experiences.  Should your puppy become afraid for any reason, dangerous or not, immediately step in and remove him/or her from the situation. That is good parenting! 4–6 Months (Juvenile Period) During this time, your puppy will gain more energy, and become more “mouthy” and restless from the discomfort of teething as the baby teeth begin to fall out and the adult teeth erupt. This will typically occur between 4-6 months of age, but sometimes lasts longer.  Your puppy will also begin to acquire an adult coat and attain most of his/her height.  During this time, he/she will also become sexually mature, so this is a great time to get your puppy spayed or neutered… before related behavior problems manifest! 2nd Fear-Impact Period: Starting in the 5 month of the Juvenile period, there may be a Second Fear-Impact Period that lasts for 3 weeks.  This is similar to the First Fear-Impact Period. If it does not occur at this time, it will occur later during the Adolescent Period. 6–12 Months (Adolescent Period) Hold on tight—your puppy will now be attaining full “puppy power” and will begin test his/her wings! This is usually a difficult time for many puppy parents, but can be a mess for those with puppies that missed early establishment of boundaries, socialization and training.  Your puppy will be likely to have much more energy, spend more time exploring the environment, become easily distracted, and may even seem less interested in you and forgetful of his/her training skills.  Just be patient, consistent, and supportive—make sure boundaries are still well in place, review your training, and continue building on your successes. 2nd Fear-Impact Period (if has not yet occurred): Puppies that did not experience their Second Fear-Impact Period in the last stage of puppy-hood will experience it during the Adolescent Period. The Second Fear-Impact period is similar to the first Fear-Impact Period and lasts for approximately 3 weeks.  1–4 Years of Age (Maturity Period) Physically, small-medium breed puppies develop more quickly than large-giant breed puppies. Smaller breed puppies will usually attain maturity by around 1 year of age and large-giant puppies can take up to 2 years. Mentally and socially, a dog may be considered a puppy for up to 4 years!

A Guide to Crate Training

“the best way to house-break” By Liz Palika             Adding a puppy to the household can be a wonderful experience, but the relationship can sour before it even begins if the puppy is ruining carpets and chewing up furniture.  There is, however, a training  tool that  will enable you to train your new companion and avoid disaster—–a crate!             Two types of crates are available.  The first type is often made of heavy molded plastic or fiberglass and is used by airlines to transport animals.  Plastic  crates usually come in two parts, top and bottom, and are easy to disassemble and clean.  Wire crates, which provide better ventilation, are also available , but they do not provide the privacy and seclusion puppies need when they retreat to their crates for naps.  However, a cover placed over a wire crate works if  privacy is needed over circulation. Do not keep a pup’s collar on when placing him in a wire crate, it can catch on the wires when they jump around  and there is a danger of strangulation.             Its important that you , the new owner, understand that the crate is not a cage or jail.  A crate is your puppy’s own place—it provides them their natural “den” or bed, a place to hide special toys or bones and a refuge from times of stress.             Puppies like to sleep in small, close places.  That’s why they curl up under the bed or under a chair, or crawl under the back porch.  A crate allows you to use this instinct as a training tool.  Begin by choosing a crate size to suit your dog.  A large crate to fit your full-size dog is fine if you don’t want a small crate and then another later, but section it off  (with boxes or something) to a space that fits your pup enough for it to stand up, stretch, turn around, and lie down comfortable.  The idea is you don’t want the pup to sleep in one end and have room to relieve itself in the other...the purpose behind using this crate is to house-train the pup utilizing his instinct to keep his bed clean.  He may have one or two accidents, but that will be all!             Introducing the Crate Introduce your pup to the crate by tossing a treat inside while the pup is watching.  Say, “(Name), crate!”  and urge the puppy inside.  Let the pup grab the treat and come back out.  Repeat the action a couple of times; later place the puppy’s dinner inside the crate.  Let the puppy eat with the door open, coming and going as it pleases.             When the pup is comfortable going in and out, toss a treat inside the crate, close the door after the pup goes inside.  Wait a couple minutes, then open the door.  Gradually increase time until the puppy is comfortable with the door being closed.             If your pup throws a temper tantrum when you close the door, do not let the pup out until it is quiet.  If you let the pup out  when it screams, it will have learned temper tantrums work.  Instead, tell the pup, “NO!  Quiet!”  in a sharp tone of voice.               Put the crate in your bedroom at night so the pup can feel your presence and be reassured that you are near.  It is eight hours that the pup can be near you even though you are sleeping.  If the pup is restless, you will be able to hear it and take it outside.  If the pup decides it wants to play, just reach over, tap the crate and say, “No!  Quiet!”             During the day, place the crate near people, in the family room or kitchen.  Let your pup see and hear the normal sights and sounds of the household.             When house training a pup, set up a schedule for the pup’s meals, playtime, crate time, trips outside, and follow it closely.  The pup should be taken out to eliminate after waking, after eating, and after playing and about every 3 hours in between.             If you are a working dog owner, don’t plan on leaving the pup alone in its crate from 9-6 p.m..  That is entirely too long for the pup to be crated.  Confine the pup with its crate to an easy-to-clean area (kitchen/bathroom/laundry room) or hire a neighbor to come play with the pup and take it outside.             If you are at home while housebreaking, feed pup 3 times a day knowing that potty time will be predictable right after, or within 5 minutes of eating/drinking.   If you work, feed pup in the morning, allowing potty time before you leave, and when you return from work.             Preventing Problems              Puppies don’t intentionally get into trouble:  its just that our belongings are so alluring, at least in a pups eyes.  After all, a couch cushion that has been slightly chewed is a lot of fun when its shaken and the stuffing flies out!  Leather shoes and rawhide chews are very similar to many pups!             Many of the destructive things pups do can be prevented by using a crate...they cannot destroy $100 shoes if crated when not supervised.  By preventing these problems, you will establish good habits.  The pup learns to chew on toys you give it, to sleep and be quiet, rather than learn to be destructive.           Security             A crate provides the pup/dog with security away from home.  If needed to be boarded, send it with its crate.   Use at hotels or when flying.   Also, teaching the pup to ride in the crate in the car may save its life  from being thrown from a car someday.  It also stops interference with the driver. As an Adult As your dog matures, it can be given more freedom, but if it does make a mistake, crate it again.  The dog must prove reliability by not chewing and having accidents.  Too much freedom too soon will result in problems.             Your dog will still use its crate on its own if it has been used properly, as it provides its special place to sleep or to retreat when needed.  Your dog will go there when low or sick.  It will hide bones there to keep them away from the new baby or puppy in its new crate.   *****first thing in morning, pick up pup, take outside to a predetermined place, mark it, take pup back there always to trigger the idea of where to eliminate..  If you hurry, he will be more apt to do his job in a rush.  Bring him inside to a small area where you will be.  Around noon, let him out to run, after eliminating, bring into house for an hour or two of “confined freedom” with you.  Take out again for quickie before putting back in crate.  Just before dinner, take dog out to run, bring in for more “confined freedom”.  Feed dinner, not later than 6:00 p.m., take outside again after dinner.  Bring in for “controlled freedom” with you, taking outside again about 8 p.m., then again before retiring.   After about 2 weeks of this sort of routine, the pattern should be set, and you can allow more freedom as puppy becomes more trust worthy...and his bladder grows! (allowing for more freedom)     Bad, unruly dogs are almost always the result of lack of training or inconsistency, neglect, or abuse on the owners part.  In as little as 5-10 min per day, you can have a well-behaved, happy dog that the whole family friends, and relatives can enjoy.   A sharp, loud "no" is sufficient reprimand for a puppy.  The dog wants to please you.  You can also grab pup by scruff of neck and look them in the eye to reprimmand (as an alpha bitch would do to it in the wild)  It also establishes you as the "leader of the pack"...use a warm happy voice to praise puppy when he does well.  NEVER USE HARSH DISCIPLINE...DON'T BORDER ON MISHANDLING OR ABUSING YOUR DOG!! If you are unable to be gently and firm and patient with your pet, find another home for it before you give up, abuse, or neglect it.  Be wise, and kind.   Never create a "live-wire" puppy by always playing rough, it is important to teach him to enjoy calm, quiet affection.  Use this method with a soft soothing voice often.  Limit the amount that children "rough house" with your pup!

Puppy Proofing Your Home

Folks who have had babies in their homes know about making the home safe for children. For those who have had no children, just get down at a puppy's level and remove or safeguard everything they can  possibly see and everything for about 5 feet up, anything near chairs, tables, sofas, etc.  Prevention is worth a pound of cure.   Here are some things you can do to make sure your home is safe for your new puppy. Secure electrical outlets and cords. Everything goes in puppy's mouth.....that's how they learn about the world. Make sure electrical cords are secured to baseboards or inaccessible to the pup. Puppies chewing on wires can suffer electric shock burns or die.   The same goes for TV cables, computer cables. Keep medication bottles or cleaners out of the puppy's way, secured in a closed cabinet. Child proof does not mean puppy proof containers because puppies can chew through the bottle. Keep your puppy away from toxic plants, both in and out of the house. Here's a list of known harmful plants that can cause illness from mild to deadly. Autumn crocus, Azaleas, Bleeding Heart, Buttercups, Castor bean, Daffodil, Dutchman's Breeches, Elderberry, Foxglove, Golden Chain, Hyacinth, Iris, Japanese Yew, Jack-In-the-Pulpit, Larkspur, Lily of the Valley,Mistletoe, Narcissus, Oleander, Poinsettia, Rhubarb, Rhododendrons, just about any kind of bulb and beware those peach and cherry pits! Use pesticides and rodent poisons with caution and make sure that the puppy cannot get to them. Rat baits are sometimes mixed with grains and can be attractive to pets. Same with boxes or plastic packages.....puppy could try to play with them and ingest the contents! Don't invite other dogs over to your house unless your puppy has had all his vaccinations If friends do come over make sure their are folk who are meticulous about the health of their pets! Don't leave cigarettes or butts on the table or in the ashtrays.Puppies could eat them and get nicotine poisoning. Watch out for Christmas ornaments, tinsel, and other decorations. Broken Christmas balls can lead to nasty cuts, and metallic tinsel can cause poisoning.   Other decorations may be toxic, as well.. Don't leave candles burning where puppies can touch them. Puppies are curious creatures and can get burned. Keep the toliet lid down if you use cleaners.They may be alkaline and tempting for the puppy or dog to drink. Dispose of bones so that puppy cannot get to them. Puppies will attracted to the smell in the trash can and ingested bones can be deadly. Don't leave sewing needles or pins out. Something else for those nosy pups to put in their mouths! Antifreeze is out of reach and drippings are cleaned up immediately! Sweet tasting antifreeze is deadly to pups. Be careful not to use flea collars, dips or other preparations on pups under 15 weeks. Check with and follow your veterinarian's recommendations for flea control on young dogs. In case of an accident, have your veterinarian's phone number posted by the phone!